Frequently Asked Questions

This is dependent on a variety of individual factors, including: what your goals are; severity of any concerns; how long the behavior has been occurring; and how much time you are able to dedicate towards training. During your consultation, I will be able to give you an idea of what your specific dog’s needs are and what your training path might look like when we cincider your goals.

Here at Hands to Paws, I guarantee that I will personally work alongside you to create a plan that will help you achieve the training goals you have in mind for you and your dog in a way that is fun, and efficient while being fear and force-free. I guarantee that you and your dog will be treated with kindness and respect throughout the training process and that I  will work to set you up for success as you work to achieve your goals. We as a team will fully recognize that dogs are sentient, free-thinking individuals whose behavior itself can never be 100% guaranteed, I promise that I will be here to help, guide, and support you every step of the way and be there should you hit any roadblocks, even after you’ve completed training with me. 

I recommend starting training and some form of socialization from the day they come home. 

Current research indicates that the earlier puppies begin socializing with their environment, including with people and other dogs, the more comfortable and behaviorally healthy they will be as adults. 

For puppy and socialization group classes, I follow the American Veterinary Society of Animal behavior guidelines, which states that socialization should begin long before puppies are fully vaccinated in order to prevent future behavior issues that often develop down the road for puppies who waited until they were fully vaccinated. For this reason, puppies can start classes after their first round of vaccinations and with a negative fecal test from their veterinarian. 

More questions? Check out the official Puppy Socialization Position Statement from the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior.

 This depends on your individual dog and their training goals. For dogs who are looking to learn basic skills, manners, and behaviors, group classes are often a great way to socialize, learn, and build skills in a group class setting. For dogs who display behaviors, such as barking or lunging around other dogs, we recommend they start with our reactive program, class, or private training so they can be set up for success before training around other dogs in closer quarters. For those looking for more hands-on, individualized training, private one-on-one sessions both allow dogs to achieve their goals in a ridiculously efficient way, but also focuses on building a massive amount of knowledge and expert training skills in their people.  

I've taken part in various training courses and classes since i was little. ranging in obedience classes, 4-H and more. Methods ranged from Alpha theory and balanced training until i found a home in the positive reinforcement community that fully aligned with my ethics in which i have been professionally apart of for 8 years now.

This is always my goal for both you and your dog! I am very hands on to help you dog gain confidence in exercises, and when you feel ready i have you do the same thing for practice while im present to allow ease of 'homework' when im not around. we talk and i am a very 'heart on the sleeve' type so we will have lots of laughs together. im esectric and sometimes over the top. i try my best to keep my clients engaged otherwise how do i expect them to have fun and otherwise remember whats going on to recreate later!

puppy foundations; potty training, biting, behavior prevention. Basic obedience, intermediate obedience, advanced obedience, beginner sports, behavior modification; barking. lunging, leash pulling, over excitement, poor greeting skills, mild to moderate separation anxiety, mild to moderate aggression; introducting dog selective (deemed aggressive) dogs to family/friends dogs and new additions. and more.

Whatever motivates your dog! the easiest thing is food but some dogs are driven by play (tug toys, balls etc). the goal is to keep your dog happy and motivated during training. we may vary in what we use as its based off of what your dog is saying they need or want in that moment!

thought for this: we expect payment for most everything we do that we dont willingly decide to do for ourselves, and as we get better, we expect more recognition/pay...yet we have high expectations for our dogs and expect it with the idea that they don't need payment because we say so. many times we treat to a decent level when they're young then expect to take away the reward as they get better at the behavior and later find ourselves confused and frustrated when there are set backs in behavior after removing rewards or adding uncommon environmental factors without aiding our dogs into the scenarios with rewarded reminders.

We make mistakes all the time as humans, can you imagine if someone was there micromanaging us all the time pointing out every little thing? I will not yell, or promote aversive action (things like leash snapping, shocking, beeping etc) instead we focus on why that choice could have been made and take the steps to help the 'right' answer be the go to next time through management and modification.

a number of small name certifiecations currently and building up the ability to afford (financally and timely) to complete my VSA, KPA and ADT along side tesTing for my CPD-KA and KPT-CTP with the end game to also accumulate my memberships with  APDT (Association of Professional Dog trainers), IAABC (International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants), PPG (Pet Professional Guild) and the Association of Animal Behavior Professionals!

 Depending on your individual dog, tools may include: a rear or front clip harness, such as a Ruffwear or Freedom Harness; a treat pouch; clicker; food and/or toys; and standard 6-foot leash. Because the science consistently demonstrates that animals work better when they are trained in a way that does not elicit fear or anxiety, we will never use shock collars, choke chains, prong collars, or anything that might otherwise cause psychological, emotional, or physical pain, fear, or stress in your dog. 

I will only use science backed, reinforcement-based training methods so dogs can learn in a way that is motivating, fun, and effective, regardless of they've been in comparison to your overall goals.

To learn more about the research and expert recommendations around training methods, check out the official recommendation and Position Statement on Humane Dog Training from the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior.

no one can know everything! anyone that makes you believe that needs to be more honest! 

If you are looking for more intense, hands on options like a Board and train, i will refer out to those that offer it that offer the same o similar promises i do.

highly anxious or aggressive dogs will be refered to a board certified veterinary behaviorist for necessary consulting that will not end in force or fear based training which is more commonly used otherwise by surrounding trainers (like many you see on tiktok)

If there is ever a behavior, or otherwise part of our time together that i cannot confidently answer, know that i know my limits and I have great contacts that i would humbly refer you to!